Go straight to the List of Articles, or read on...
|
There is a huge middle ground between the package tour, as invented by Thomas Cook, and the strenuous expedition, as satirised by Monty Python's Crossing the Andes by Frog. We call it semi-adventurous travel, and it's what we have been doing ever since we were married, well over a quarter of a century ago. The essence of it is that it's inexpensive and independent, but neither back-pack gruelling, trying to save every penny, pice or pfennig, nor endlessly luxurious. We've toured South India by motorcycle; we've soaked in Hungarian spas; we've eaten barbecues and drunk (too much) vodka in Poland. We've taken the train from Berlin to Moscow and back, and rented a centuries-old house in Malta. We've driven across the United States seven times, and explored Mexico in our old Peugeot 504. We set the site up because we found it surprisingly hard to find the sort of information and inspiration we wanted; rather like the reason Roger wrote Motorcycle Touring in Europe in the 1980s, then transformed it into a web-site in the 21st century.
Palms, Goa.
We flew in on a cheap package tour -- then hired a motorcycle, and didn't always stay and eat in the package hotel. |
|
Semi-adventurous travel sounds romantic, and it is. Even the bad times can be good, such as the time when we arrived late in Paris on our motorcycle, without having booked a room. The only room we could find had a single bed, and a floor covered with linoleum (plus a rug with a hole in it). But we'd not been married long... Only once in the last 25 years have we had to sleep in the car, and that was a good few years ago. Follow the advice on this site, and it should never happen to you.
Semi-adventurous travel may also sound expensive, but it isn't. If it were, we couldn't afford to do it. Yes, it costs more than a low-end package tour or a succession of Lonely Planet-recommended bottom-end hotels, but equally, it's a lot cheaper than a high-end package tour. Often, saving money is far more a matter of knowing how to travel than of lowering your standards dramatically.
In Europe, for the pair of us, we reckon on an average of under 100 euros a day for food, shelter and admissions. Often, it includes petrol too; without petrol, call it 80-90 euros. If you need to convert euros to a more familiar currency, see the article about exchange rates.
|
It may also sound like a young person's game. Again, it isn't. Roger was born in 1950, Frances in 1945. Yes, the way we travel has changed over the years, but we still do essentially the same things. And in the Himalayas alone, we remember meeting Hanns-Peter in his 70s, Ruby in her 80s, both travelling a lot rougher than we do. If on the other hand you are young, you may be able to find places where you can save an extra few euros, pounds or dollars. For instance, when middle age strikes and you need a trip to the loo in the middle of the night, it is a great comfort not to have to get dressed and stumble down the corridor. Until then, you may well be able to save up to 50 per cent of the price of a room. Finally, semi-adventurous travel may sound difficult, but yet again, it isn't, and yet again, if it were, we wouldn't do it. On this site we try to inspire you to do the same sort of thing. The site is free, but we reckon we can teach you how to save a lot of money and (more importantly) how to have a really good time. If that's worth money to you, send us a few dollars (or euros, or pounds)to help support the site.
Dikteion Cave, Crete.
This is the birthplace of Zeus himself. As in Goa (picture above) we had bought a cheap 14-day package holiday and then hired our own transport: in this case, a car. There is an article about car hire. Although we spent about half the trip staying in the package hotel, we spend the other half in another hotel in Chania. If a package is cheap enough, extra hotels need not be expensive, especially if you are travelling out of season. This was in March, and in fact we were there for Frances's birthday. There is an anecode about that in Restaurants (coming soon). |
Because you don't necessarily stick to the beaten path and the familiar tourist sites, you can get to see things that the average tourist will never see and to meet people they will never meet. 'Semi-adventurous' travel comes a lot closer to the old idea of travel and discovery than it does to modern tourism, though of course, to pretend that there is no element of the latter is usually to delude yourself.
Devil's Bridge
Of course there will be bad times along with the good, but the bad times should be rare and few, and usually they will be disappointments rather than total disasters: finding out that somewhere isn't as picturesque as it has been painted in the guide-books, or that it's closed for repair. These are however wildly outweighed by the good times, as when you fall in with a troupe of Transylvanian folk musicians, or find a magical mediaeval bridge in a river valley, bypassed for a century or two by the modern road; or picnic on local cheese and wine with a vista of the Pyrenees spread out in front of you (see picnics). Again, if there good times didn't outweigh the bad, we wouldn't do it.
We are only talking about semi-adventurous travel here, not Down The Alimentary Canal With Gun And Camera. We therefore assume the following: a good night's sleep; decent food (even if we do sometimes have to rely on picnics); physical security (no real dangers from disease, bandits, civil war or unnecessary risk); general absence of hassle.
It is however astonishingly easy to guarantee most of this, most of the time. When things do fall short, it is almost invariably in the first two categories, or the last. But if you can't sleep you can always move to another hotel; if the food is poor, indifferent or even unavailable, you are unlikely to starve, even if you don't have a picnic with you; and as for hassles, well, life is full of hassles, but we generally reckon on finding fewer of them when we are travelling than we find at home.
|
The only real trouble we've had from disease was in China, where the habit of eating from a common bowl is a guarantee that if anyone has a cold or the like, many of the others will soon have it too -- though many of the Chinese themselves are convinced that you don't catch colds this way. We suspect (though we cannot be sure) that it was the debilitating effect of the well-known 'Chinese cold' that weakened Frances's immune system and rendered her susceptible to pseudopolyarthritis rhizomelique (PPR) -- which can however be treated and was a lot better by the time we were writing this.
The porno motel.
This was on the way into Miami, somewhere near the outskirts. We had driven across from the west coast to the east -- a surprisingly dull journey -- and it was getting dark; around the time we needed to start looking for somewhere to eat and sleep. We saw a Peruvian restaurant and thought it would be interesting to try, so we stopped at the next half-reasonable looking hotel.Most of the hotels in the area offered free XXX-rated movies, but so what? The desk clerk was rather amused at the arrival of a middle-aged woman with a walking stick (the PPR mentioned above) but allowed Frances to inspect the room. She found it clean and decent, for a given value of 'decent' and came back to the car laughing. The multiplicity of mirrors in the room (including over the bed, as you can see in this shot) was one thing; the disco ball light in the corner and the pink glass bar were others. There are more pictures of this motel (and others) in our '1000 Motels' gallery (a homage to the late Frank Zappa). |
|
Just as we are semi-adventurous, we are also semi-active. Neither of us has much enthusiasm for sunbathing on beaches, and if that's your idea of a good time, you might as well buy a package holiday. It's what they're for, after all. On the other hand, we do have quite a weakness for soaking in spas, though Frances can stand many more hours of it than Roger can (he normally takes pictures some of the time, instead).
We can walk quite long distances -- five or ten miles, (10-15 km) -- but mostly, we don't. We drive a lot, and walk a little. Because we take a lot of pictures, we may spend many hours on our feet, but cover very little ground: a mile or two, or three at the outside (2-4 km), or sometimes only a few hundred yards/metres.
|
Sometimes we'll stay in the hotel and read. Quite often, if the weather is any good, we will sit at a sidewalk café and watch the world go by. We tend to take long, relaxing meals, and to get plenty of sleep. We'd be better photographers if we could face getting up at dawn more often, but we can't, so we aren't. In other words, just as we remain flexible about where we stay and what we eat, we stay flexible about what we do. We normally reckon on the occasional day doing nothing, but it doesn't always work. Once, in late 2007, we actually cut a trip short because the weather was too good. It was in the Spanish Pyrenees, and we had assumed there would be a certain amount of hunting for places to photograph, and the occasional day when the weather was dull and we wouldn't feel like doing much: Roger would read, and Frances would do some embroidery. The weather was perfect the whole time, and we found one superb location after another. After 10 days (we had planned to be away a fortnight/14 days) we were so tired we came home.
Pecs.
Pecs is pronounced 'Petch': 'cs' is always a 'tch' in Hungarian, just as 'c' is always 'ts' and 'gy' is a soft 'g' ('j' sound in 'jam'). This does not make it any easier to understand, but it does make it easier to spell out. |
Initially, the mix of articles is somewhat disparate: as well as a lot of newly-written material, it draws on material from our other two sites, Motorcycle Touring in Europe and rogerandfrances.com. The former is self-explanatory, and substantially unillustrated, while the latter is mostly about photography: if you are interested in photographing your travels, you may find it of use, even if you are not a keen photographer (we are).
As time goes on, we hope this site will become more coherent. The information is sporadically updated, but you can usually get a good idea of prices and other changes from other on-line sources. Mostly, though, it's about ideas, inspiration, and the tricks we have learned over the decades. And as we say, if you reckon it's worth a few bucks to you, you can send us a subvention via Paypal.
Go back to the list of articles
or to the Home Page
or support the site with a small donation.
© 2008 Roger W. Hicks