There is nothing quite like a good, relaxing spa: a long soak in warm water, punctuated with the occasional break for food and drink, or a short walk. Oh: and it shouldn't be expensive: under 20 euros a head, and preferably under 10. Our favourite spas, by a very long way, are in Hungary, though we have also encountered good spas (or what look like good spas) in Austria, France, Germany, the Netherlands and Slovenia.
A bad spa is nothing at all like a good spa. A bad spa is a tedious and extraordinarily expensive rip-off, based on medical theories that were discredited a hundred years ago. It is punctuated with pseudo-medical treatments and is aimed at people with more money (and leisure) than sense -- as is often evidenced by the presence of a casino, another way of separating the financially overprivileged from their money.
We first found what we call 'real' spas -- the sort described in the opening line -- in Hungary in 2001. We found ourselves in Igal, where we had to buy swimming costumes, because we just weren't expecting to stop at a spa. We have returned since, several times, once even staying for a week.
The next time we struck lucky after Igal was in the south of France in January 2003. It was a bitterly cold day, with powder snow blowing on the ground, but the previous night we had stayed in an hotel on the French-Spanish border, in Bourg-Madame. They had a brochure at the reception desk for Llo (pronounced 'Yo' -- it's Catalan) and it looked good. On the way, we saw another Land Rover in the ditch and experienced two white-outs, that extraordinary condition in which you can see nothing from the windows of the car, just plain, bright white. We had the spa to ourselves for over an hour, then a honeymoon couple joined us. That was it until we left. For a few euros -- well under 10 euros each -- we had the main indoor pool (the outdoor one was closed), the jacuzzis (indoor and outdoor), the sauna, the hammam...
So after Llo, we started looking for more. This article is very much 'work in progress', because we are still looking, and we have to say that we have been disappointed far more often than we have been pleased: sufficiently so that nowadays, we seldom go far out of our way to investigate a spa, except in Hungary, where we have yet to be disappointed (though we have not been to the bath-houses in Budapest, which apparently alternate days for men and women).
Although there are two other worthwhile spas in the same area as Llo, at St. Thomas (outdoor only, but our favourite in France) and Dorres (pretty basic), the sad truth is that the vast majority of French spas are absurdly medicalized and ridiculously expensive: a 3-day 'cure' for several hundred euros is the normal starting point. This is one reason why so many are closed: the state stopped supporting them, entirely correctly in our view, and the waters just weren't warm enough to allow them to be re-invented as leisure destinations.
Spain and Portugal are little better than the French average in that they are lightly less expensive, but they are still absurdly overpriced and ridiculously medicalized. The Czech Republic is, in our limited experience, wildly overpriced and over-medicalized, and while the only Slovak spa we have tried (Vrbov, near Kezmarok) was cheap, it was run down and grievously over-crowded, with unusually evil-smelling water. Farty-smelling sulphurous waters are part of what many spas are about; but Frances couldn't even breathe within a foot (30cm) of the surface of the water at this one. Even if the smell of the water doesn't get you, it may provoke fits of coughing or other unwelcome symptoms. The baths at Lenti (see below) are supplied by at least two springs, and one of them did this to Frances though it had no adverse effects on Roger.
The spas listed below are ones we have enjoyed, or ones we intend to investigate as soon as we get around to it. We have spent many weeks and many hundreds of euros checking other spas, especially in France, Spain and Portugal, and we have yet to find a single spa we can recommend in either of the latter two countries, or in the Czech Republic.
But Watch This Space: we have plans to explore more of Poland, Romania, Bulgaria... And of course we are always interested to hear our readers' recommendations: Contact Us.
Most of the spas we like are at around 35C/95F. Anything much less than 33C/91F is generally too cool except on a very warm day; 37C/99F or more may lead to heatstroke if the body cannot lose heat fast enough and the core temperature rises too far during a prolonged immersion.
The latter is, we suspect, why spas post maximum recommended times in the baths; times which we have exceeded many times without ill effects. On the other hand, dehydration can be a real problem, and if you try to make this up with cold drinks, you can quite easily become bloated or queasy or both; Roger suffers much more than Frances from this. This is why we have emphasized refreshments more than you might expect if you are not familiar with spas. By all means bring your own but remember that glass bottles are normally banned, for obvious reasons.
Most spas have lockers, and because they are very public, they are also reasonably secure: few people would have the brass neck to break into them and rifle through the contents as others passed by. On the other hand, if you have your passport and an expensive camera with you, they may still look distressingly flimsy. There is also the question of where you put your money (for refreshments) while you are in the water.
What we normally do, therefore, is lock most of our expensive possessions securely away in the car, then carry a lockable box and a short length of chain to hold our cameras and wallets. Nowadays we use a little watertight Seahorse case, but an ammunition box (as illustrated, and as we used in the past) is perfectly satisfactory. Use a combination lock and you don't have to worry about keys...
Laa an der Thaya is one we will go to when we get around to it. Huge; vast car-parks; very family-oriented; lightly medicalized; under 20 euros a head when we last checked.
Spa gave its name to thermal establishments the world over and last time we were there it was closed because it was being converted to a leisure destination rather than a pseudo-medical establishment. We have not been there since, but hope to get there one day. We fear it will be expensive, however.
Arsen, near the German border on the way to Cologne, is surprisingly similar to a Hungarian relaxation-type spa (see below) but it is inevitably quite a bit more expensive, and they sell short-term tickets (2 hours being the shortest, as far as we recall) as well as day tickets. Refreshments are indifferent and again expensive, but it's a nice break if you have been on the road for a while. The local VVV tourist office is unbelievably efficient and helpful.
Dorres is about the most basic spa we have ever visited. At the top of the slope there are a couple of coffin-like single-person bathtubs hollowed out of the granite, plus a granite pool that will accommodate five to ten people (ten would need to be related, with small children, or having an orgy). Then there is a sort of long, lined ditch (left) that the water runs down. That's it, apart from the changing rooms towards the bottom of the slope. But it's also the cheapest French spa we know. It's near Llo. Bring your own refreshments: we have yet to see them on sale. But we don't go there very often, any more. The baths are apparently Roman in origin.
LLo has already been described. The refreshments are quite expensive and indifferent -- you wouldn't want a snack there -- and it can become very crowded (and therefore rather unattractive) at week-ends and during school holidays.
On the other hand, it is open all year 'round, and it's still well under 10 euros a head. We occasionally go there in the winter nowadays (we avoid it only because of the overcrowding). In the summer, we much prefer St. Thomas. For Llo, stay in Saillegouse or Bourg-Madame.
St. Thomas is a curious spa, with some of the trappings of medicalization but overall a gorgeous, inexpensive leisure destination with two adult pools and one for children (all outdoor) in a stunning mountain setting. Late spring is particularly wonderful as you soak in the warm water and watch the butterflies and lizards among the spring flowers. The nearest accommodation is several miles away. Refreshments are limited and not cheap, but not too expensive either.
Years ago, we passed a very attractive looking spa in the eastern part of the country -- the old East Germany, though it was after unification -- which was reasonably priced (under 20 euros, maybe even under 10) and not over-medicalized. Unfortunately we were on the motorcycle and in a hurry and did not have time to try it, though Frances had a quick look around and picked up the brochures. Which we have since lost...
Atlantika. More of an amusement park than most, and open only in the summer, but still a good spa at a very good price (well under 10 euros a head). Superb for children because of the water-dome and low-pressure, child-controlled water-cannon. Closed in the winter, despite the fact that the main pool is the hottest we have ever encountered. At the feed end, we found it too hot to get into at well over 40C, 105F, though a few metres/yards away it was merely hot.
Balf is seriously medicalized: attached to a hospital, half an hour maximum, very restricted hours, you have to wear a bathing cap. It's still very affordable (under 10 euros) but it certainly isn't a leisure destination.
Gyula. This is the 'Var-Furdo' or 'Castle-Spa', which sounds more dramatic than it is. The spa itself is a good, average Hungarian spa with very fair refreshments but unlike Hegykoe and Igal (below) we would not be inclined to make it the focus of a trip. Well under 10 euros/head. Accommodation is surprisingly thin on the ground and in some cases overpriced; small panzios (pensions, bed-and-breakfast but usually without the breakfast) and rooms in private houses are a much better bet than hotels and bigger panzios.
Hegykoe. Probably our second choice after Igal, as noted above. Quite a bit more expensive, but still under 10 euros per head per full day, and at least some of the nearby hotels sell discount tickets. The indoor pool was just being built last time we were there (2007) but there are several outdoor pools; the main one (and the warmest) is partly covered, and it is a slightly surreal experience to be in a warm bath in the rain. It's near the Austrian border (and therefore attracts a lot of Austrians, hence the price) and it is open all year 'round. Several hotels nearby; prices quite high by Hungarian standards.
Igal is our all-time favourite spa, anywhere, with adult pools (indoor and outdoor), children's pools, water-slides, cafés, bars and excellent snack food including the wonderful langos, a savoury fried cake served with sour cream or grated cheese or both. Although the price has more than doubled since we first went there, it's still superb value at well under 10 euros a head for a full day. Open all year 'round. Lots of hotels nearby, mostly good value, but no great correlation between price and quality.
Lenti. Weird. As well as the spas (indoor, outdoor and indoor/outdoor, covered) there is a big park based on ley lines, or something like them. Quite expensive by Hungarian standards at over 10 euros a head, with limited refreshments, but worth visiting if you are in the area. Hotels/panzios may take some finding and vary widely in price and quality; the two do not seem to be closely related. Restaurants thin on the ground.
Sarospatak. Again something of an amusement park, but big enough and sprawling enough that it doesn't really matter. Even crowds don't seem to matter: there are numerous pools on many levels, for both adults and children, and lots of refreshments.
It is closed (we think) in winter. Well under 10 euros/head. There is a huge late Soviet style Eastern European hotel nearby; quite a few more reasonably priced hotels, panzios and restaurants are scattered throughout the town.
Tomasi. A pleasant small spa with a dramatic roof over one pool. Unpretentious and modestly priced at under 10 euros per head per day; reasonable-to-good refreshments. We have only stayed in the town once and it was OK but unremarkable.
Ptuj (honestly!) is housed in an unattractive building in the averagely dull city of Ptuj (there's also an outdoor pool). There is not much in the way of atmosphere or refreshments but it's a pleasant spa at under 10 euros a head for a few hours' relaxation if you happen to be in the area: it's not really worth going out of your way for. There's a water-slide, so it's moderately attractive for children, too. There are also fitness classes. We think (we are not sure) that it is open all year 'round.
Many people are put off by spas; they imagine them as snobby, overpriced and more trouble than they are worth. This is certainly true of many; in our experience, the vast majority. On the other hand, you don't have to go into the bad ones -- you get a feeling VERY quickly, as soon as you walk through the door -- and the good ones really are very good. You can walk away from them feeling quite remarkably refreshed, with a 'lift' that lasts for hours or even days afterwards. The effect seems to be cumulative, too. If you go to the spa for three days in a row, or even for three days out of four, the feeling of well-being tends to last longer. The main thing that limits Frances's stays at spas is that Roger gets bored after three days.
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© 2008 Roger W. Hicks